Every time I’m home I try to surf at El Porto in Manhattan Beach, which I guess I consider my “home break.” It’s a pretty mellow beach break and very consistent. Even when it’s small, it’s still pretty fun. Usually the first time someone comes, the first thing they see are the Chevron refinery pipe stacks next door and get freaked out. I guess since I’ve been coming for a while, they never really bother me. It’s just so nice being in the water and I almost always see dolphins. As I’ve gotten older, I’m a little less die-hard about going surfing all the time. I used to try to go every day no matter what. Now…I make excuses like well, it looks gloomy, or it looks choppy. But once I’m in the water, I always am so glad I paddled out. I guess getting older either makes you more complacent or lazy or maybe I just don’t like wiping out as much? =) I was talking with my friend and she hit the nail on the head. Since I don’t really get to go consistently anymore (having lived in Chicago and then NYC for the last 6 years), every time I go it’s a re-learning process and constantly sucking. It’s tough. Surfing is one of those sports where you could surf for years and never be any good.
Luckily, one of my surf buddies was in town (she lives in NYC now too) so it made it that much easier to go out. It was a gorgeous day and we had such a good time catching up in the water.